![]() Lastly, you can play with the "overall effects strength" a little but try to leave it as close to default as shown below (and if you want to increase them, do not go higher than 110-112% for the logitech g25/27 wheels and no higher than 70% for the thrustmaster t500. Please read edit 11 at the bottom of the post for further details. However, having said all this, i've not been able to test this for myself so you will need to test for yourself. Whilst i still believe it is "artificial" in nature, it may very well be desirable for some specific cars since it can make the ffb feel more realistic due to some inherent problems with how conventional ffb hardware works. Turns out enabling spring/damper in the profiler seems to then allow rf2 to apply it's own spring/damper affects onto the final ffb output. CORRECTION: Thanks to Flaux for correcting me on this. fake) effect ontop of the dynamically calculated real-time ffb in rfactor 2 (which you don't want to be degrading in any way). Adding it like this from the profiler is not at all realistic as it simply adds a layer of static (i.e. These effects are not realistic and should only come from the dynamic ffb calculated by rfactor 2's physics engine. You should have spring and damper and any spring-centering/auto-centering disabled. Here i have screenshots of the Logitech g25/27 and Thrustmaster t500 profilers with the correct settings. Setting up our wheel profiler correctly before we startīefore we get started, we need to setup our wheel profilers correctly. The improvement did not occur the moment i made these ffb adjustments but in my case it was less than a week later (so maybe I could argue that it was pretty instant after all).hopefully that gives you enough reason to read on. In my own personal experience having found the perfect settings for my own wheel, i have seen a giant and easy 1-2 second lap time and consistency improvement in all of my personal bests (where my performance had plateaued for many months leading up to it). ![]() being in the "zone"/"flow") which is where we operate with the least amount of conscious effort and yet perform at our best and more consistently so. The reason we should address these two issues is that they are the key issues to unlocking our fullest driving potential, allowing us to drive more subconciously (a.k.a. These two problems occur in the low end forces (known as an "initial ffb deadzone" issue which causes a complete looseness in the ffb initially which affects your performance mostly in the slow speed corners) and in the high end forces (known as an "ffb clipping" issue which causes the wheel to max out at 100% force too early which affects your performance mostly in the fast speed corners). They are just ♥♥♥♥♥♥.There are two problem areas that affect the ffb performance of your wheel in rfactor 2 (but this also applies to any and all racing sim titles). There are two dampeners in the wheel base. You can fix it if you willing to take apart your wheel and diy improve the dampeners there. There is a gigantic deadzone in the house of the g27 and that deadzone create the noise. When I moved to a T300 all the rattling was gone. G27 uses the old cogwheel FFB tech that isn't too great with modern sims that output higher FFB rates. So only way to reduce something in rF2 FFB is to add filtering. rF2 FFB reads no values from that anymore, it outputs the true forces as they are coming into the steering arm. ![]() Those are legacy rF1 fake effects, at least the rumble strip magnitude one. So, I’m wondering if there is a problem with the section of RF2 code the reads the "Rumble strip magnitude" value. This can be done by changing the "Off-road multiplier" in the “Controller.JSON” file. You can change the FFB on grass without changing other effects on the wheel.
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